Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with residents and visitors alike praising its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco honored it as a City of Gastronomy within its Creative Cities Network – including it in a exclusive roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it joins a international community of over 400 cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a driver of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "is a testament to its profound gastronomic legacy and dynamic gastronomic culture," as stated by a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to secure a position in this coveted list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its residents or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always characterized its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its historic affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its tender kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His cooks ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Hidden Gems and Legacy Eateries
Almost on every corner, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and complicated. The artisan whisks the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but express concern that their children are unwilling to master the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is hoped, will inspire more people worldwide to discover these tales and experience the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
